Recommended Engine Oil For An XS2

[ravensmoorbob]

Greetings From The UK Everyone!

I'm sure this is an "old chestnut" but which oil should I use?

Semi synthetic, fully synthetic or conventional 20/40.

My instinct says 10w 40 semi, any advice would be welcome.

Cheers Bob

[kopcicle]

Shell Rotella T
Castrol-GTX

then the high priced spread

spectro-4

only my "suggestions"

Zinc is a good thing
Modern automotive 5w xx whatever oils with "friction modifiers" are not .I have traced a plethora of clutch issues to just this .
It "used to be" 10/40 summer and 20/50 winter and/or 10/40 liquid cooled , 20/50 air cooled . There are exceptions (the GSXR "oil heads") and this is meant only as a guide and reference .

These are just suggestions and my experience . I like the Rotella because how far are you from a Wall Mart , ever ?
I have never had a problem with Castrol and up till recently their customer service and engineering departments were outstanding.

Now the exceptions

The other roller bearing bottom end I own is a Shovelhead . For years I used Kendal without complaint . When the troubles hit Kendal (that story is up to you to research) I was able to move to VR1-50 with no issues .

My race engines used Castrol straight wt 30-HD because that is what the sponsorship provided . Again no complaints .

Specifically for the XS the one , single , most intelligent modification you can do to the engine to improve longevity is the addition of a real oilfilter . There are many different approaches to this so there is some more research for you . I don't leave oil in a bike long enough to take advantage of a add on filter (usually no more than 2 months , 2,000 miles) so this doesn't really apply to me . This is also because I buy in bulk and pay approximately 60% of what most pay retail .  

Synthetics

In a word , no . Call it a lack of adventuresome spirit or just set in my ways but I have zero experience with any full synthetic other than the VR1-50 in the Shovelhead .

conclusion

All this goes for naught if the oil isn't changed regularly . In the XS there is no filter , just a two stage strainer that does a good job of keeping rocks , pebbles , small pets and kids out of your engine sump . Under certain conditions it won't even do that .Pump suction applied to cold oil is responsible for destroying more sump strainers than any other reason . Warm up of the XS is best done gently , without sudden rpm increases until full running temperature is reached .

It may come off as opinion , it is . Anecdotal it may be but it is my personal experience from near 4 decades . I strongly recommend that you do your own research of actual scientific fact based on these guidelines as time has , as it does all of us , passed me by somewhat .

Again , change your oil , adjust your valves , keep records and notes . If you do your personal data sample will rival mine in short order and your motorcycle will like you . Ignore these simple guidelines and not only will gawd almighty kill a kitten but your motorcycle will hate you and the pretty girls will ignore you .

~kop

[richard]

I run Castrol 4T 20-50 motorcycle oil. I was running Castrol GTX 20-50, but changed to the motorcycle oil of the same brand. Where you notice it is mostly on the clutch. If the oil is too slippery the clutch slips. and I have heavy springs on my clutch to prevent that I. A lot of people use the Shell Rotella, I don't have an opinion on that.

[madmax]

 I'm a firm believer in 20/50 Bob, especially one that's high in ZDDP (Zinc Dithiophospate), which is good for camshafts wiping against rocker faces.  As has been mentioned, most modern oils have friction modifiers added which are a big no-no for wet clutches so stay away from anything with an API rating later than SG.

 There are 2 brands in the UK I have faith in, Miller Classic 20/50 and good old Unipart 20/50, both in 5L bottles so you get 2 changes for around £20, both are intended for Austin A+ engines so are good for the shear action of gearboxes as well.

  Cheers

   Max

 P.S. What was the name of the pub just down the road from Oulton main gate? Been seriously sh1t-faced in there a few times  

[ravensmoorbob]

Thanks to everyone for the advice!

[ravensmoorbob]

Apr 24, 2014 15:34:04 GMT -5 madmax said:

 I'm a firm believer in 20/50 Bob, especially one that's high in ZDDP (Zinc Dithiophospate), which is good for camshafts wiping against rocker faces.  As has been mentioned, most modern oils have friction modifiers added which are a big no-no for wet clutches so stay away from anything with an API rating later than SG.

 There are 2 brands in the UK I have faith in, Miller Classic 20/50 and good old Unipart 20/50, both in 5L bottles so you get 2 changes for around £20, both are intended for Austin A+ engines so are good for the shear action of gearboxes as well.

  Cheers

   Max

 P.S. What was the name of the pub just down the road from Oulton main gate? Been seriously sh1t-faced in there a few times  The Edgerton arms!