|
|
Post by scout4924 on Sept 24, 2012 9:27:12 GMT -5
![]() [/img] So I admit,wires and I do not like one another. I'm also dumb with computers (old but trying) so no fancy diagrams, just a request for some help. I just installed PAMCO ignition and a mikes PMA. I wired it like this except no fuse box (fused) and a lithium battery. I went off this diagram. Here is the issue. First I don't want to burn up the $ I just invested! 2nd, I'm getting stray voltage. (?) The only lead from the battery goes throu a 20Amp fuse to a toggle. I also run a kill (stock) Red/white goes back to coil alone. Kill switch works fine, but the toggle will not stop the motor. It will interupt the ignition timing wise as best I can tell. Fart, pop, bang anything above idle. My guess is its running on direct current off the charging system. Should I run voltage directly to the barttery from there (fused). instead of though the ignition switch. Sorry I'm so vague....... ![]() [/img] Attachments:
|
|
|
|
Post by scout4924 on Sept 26, 2012 0:09:38 GMT -5
For some reason te diagrams and text would not post together. I admit,wires and I do not like one another. I'm also dumb with computers (old but trying) so no fancy diagrams, just a request for some help. I just installed PAMCO ignition and a mikes PMA. I wired it like this except no fuse box (fused) and a lithium battery. I went off this diagram. Here is the issue. First I don't want to burn up the $ I just invested! 2nd, I'm getting stray voltage. (?) The only lead from the battery goes throu a 20Amp fuse to a toggle. I also run a kill (stock) Red/white goes back to coil alone. Kill switch works fine, but the toggle will not stop the motor. It will interupt the ignition timing wise as best I can tell. Fart, pop, bang anything above idle. My guess is its running on direct current off the charging system. Should I run voltage directly to the barttery from there (fused). instead of though the ignition switch. The second one named "better" is how I hope to solve the issue. Sorry for the trouble.  |
|
|
|
Post by richard on Sept 26, 2012 13:35:00 GMT -5
That diagram looks right to me. That PMA may have enough voltage potential to jump your kill switch when the switch is off. Simplest way to check the kill switch is to lift a wire from the switch while it is running. It should kill it. Voltage from the regulator should go direct to the battery with a fuse of course. Then power to a fuse block or whatever you are using for fuses then everything from there. Sometimes when you are getting AC past the rectifier part of your regulator for whatever reason you end up with problems like that.
|
|
|
|
Post by scout4924 on Sept 27, 2012 6:57:29 GMT -5
Thanks for your help. After sleeping on it. I think I timed it TDC on the left cylinder and seem to recall the xs is right cylinder TDC timed. I have my Honda twin in my head. I'll be checking some things over today.
|
|
|
|
Post by richard on Sept 27, 2012 16:41:59 GMT -5
I run a Pamco ignition and it is a lost spark ignition, which means it fires on the at TDC for both cylinders including the exhaust stroke on the opposite cylinder, so TDC will be the same for either side unless you are rephrased. Also you might check your centrifugal advance to make sure it working right. Sometimes the olds one will hang up on the return or not fully advance when they should. On High vibration bike those ATU bob weights wear out where they contact the advance rod pivot slots
|
|
