1980 special 2

[semiwrecker1]

I have a 1980 650special 2 and shes giving me probs ...she idles at 18-2k( thats what the tach says ) but the big prob is sometimes after she warms up she will stick at 4k and the only way to get it back down is is down shift and release the clutch.... now she did have slash cut open pipes on it but I put a set of stocks pipes on it and it seemed to help with the roughness if the bike....also when she is cold the right side carb seems to lag behind the for a few sec...it will start and then you will hear the other carb will come alive...I have cleaned the carbs 3 times but I am thinking I missed something

[headcase]

Might want to toss a new set of ignition advance springs on. If they're the least bit weak, just idling they will let the timing sneak forward and up goes the idle. Make sure the advance rod moves freely and returns all the way when you let it go. Also try adjusting the carb balance screw, in between the carbs in the back. You may have one carb coming in before the other, and it'll also smooth out the vibes a lot. The trick is finding access to it when the bike is idling, and a long enough screwdriver to make the adjustments without taking it all apart.

[grizld1]

Pick up a can of carb cleaner or WD40 and start looking for vacuum leaks. Check the carb boots, the ends of the throttle shafts, and the vacuum lines to the petcocks. Apply the spray to one spot at a time and wait a couple of seconds for response.

In the BS34 carbs on your bike, the pilot mixture screws are located under brass plugs in the vertical castings in front of the slide towers. Drill the plugs carefully, tap them for a 4 mm. screw, and pull them out. Remove the mixture screws and clean the carbs properly.

Unless the ignition's been modified or it's not a US model, there'll be no springs (or points, or anything else) in the camshaft end housings, since the bike has electronic ignition and advance.

[headcase]

Ok, scratch that.