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points
May 11, 2011 7:16:19 GMT -5
Post by ekoehler on May 11, 2011 7:16:19 GMT -5
having trouble dialing them in any tips? or instructions, like at what point do i set the gaps, i thought it was when they are at their highest point, but i cant seem to get it right. i had the whole unit off and my markings for the backing plate got smudged off when i cleanded them (only used a sharpie). any tips will help, thanks
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points
May 12, 2011 9:24:39 GMT -5
Post by Tom Graham on May 12, 2011 9:24:39 GMT -5
Don't "dwell" so much on the points gap. The important setting is timing.
Gap is set on the highest part of the points cam. You look at the heel of the points and it bumps up on the cam. The highest part is a plateau so it's easy to get it right. Adjust both points as best you can. Set the timing and adjust the gap to get both dead on.
New Guys Remember: A drop of oil on both felts. Put a smear of grease on the points cam in front of each point heel. The heel will scoop up the grease like a snow blade and be lubed constantly. Grease can be thought of as an oil sponge, releasing just enough oil to keep the point heel lubed and wear to a minimum.
Tom Graham
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kopcicle
Full Member
"don't crush that dwarf , hand me the pliers "
Posts: 150
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points
May 12, 2011 14:32:51 GMT -5
Post by kopcicle on May 12, 2011 14:32:51 GMT -5
Well the manual doesn't do a very good job of explaining this so ...
Set one set of points to the proper gap and place a dwell meter on that set of points and take down the reading . (doesn't really matter what the number is or how many cylinders because you are going to make the other set the same . Just pick a setting that gives you a reading around mid scale) Now get the bike running and set the other set of points to the same reading . Ok now the almost kinda tricky part . Connect a timing light to the bike and moving the entire breaker plate assembly place the timing mark (usually for 1 & 4 ) within the 1/8" or so that is the full advance mark . You will notice that one set of points is "usually" solidly connected to the breaker plate assembly (again usually 1&4 but not always ) and the other set (2&3) will move not only in advance and retard but in gap also . Switch the timing light to 2&3 and again place the mark in the 1/8" that is full advance . go back and check dwell for both 1&4 and 2&3 . if the dwell and the timing is reasonably the same for each set within a couple of degrees you are done .
Special cases . On older bikes the advance mechanism may have been abused and even though the timing is correct at full advance the static or full retarded timing may be way late . limiting the advance by adding a bit of metal to the advance stoppers is preferred to attempting to bend them as they often break . Worn or loose advance springs will cause indistinct timing at just off idle to around 2,200 hundred rpm . Adjust the valves . I can't repeat this often enough . Adjust the valves or all the work that goes into adjusting the timing has little or no effect on performance . By nature of the shim under bucket arrangement that Kawasaki used for the 650 and 750 they get neglected . Find either a reputable mechanic with a proven record with older bikes or attempt or your self . Just get it right . Some but not all of the 650's had three adjustable carbs and one fixed , others had idle and air screws and some had accelerator pumps . All require different procedures for adjustment . How ever if the valve adjust is correct and the timing is spot on the carb sync should be a breeze . Have a talk with the folks around WiredGeorge before you mangle anything in and or around your carbs . if your manifolds are rotten and cracked talk to Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Specializing in Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Parts Jeff and Co. will be more than happy to get you the right parts . Almost forgot . Get a trickle charger for the thing . The early charging systems arn't near as efficient as the newer models . They work and they are durable they just don't have great output .
~kop
This was originally written for kz 650 I hope it makes sense
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points
May 23, 2011 14:01:22 GMT -5
Post by 650leo on May 23, 2011 14:01:22 GMT -5
Kop, your descripton is a good one for people with a bit of experence with bikes. The main interest on here are XS650's just two cylinders and two carbs. Before you adjust the point you should adjust the cam chain tension, then the valves, If you do the points first it will need redoing after you do the cam chain tension. On the points there are two sets. The upper set is for the right side. These points are mounted to the full breaker plate and need to be set first. As mentioned roll the engine over to get the points full open, then set to .014. Now time that set, The repair manuals tell how. Now roll the engine over to open the lower set of points, gap them. When you tim this set you adjust by moving just the half breaker plate. You should be able to get both sets of points to time between the two F marks. With a bit more work you can get them to be in the same spot. Once you get them timed at the F marks you need to check timing with a light. Hook up the light, start the bike. Pull the trigger and shine the light at the marks. At idle the rotor mark should be lined up between the F marks. Now as you rev the engine the rotor mark will appear to move to the left. At somewhere around 3200 rpm the mark on the rotor should have moved over to the full advance mark. Over to but never past the full mark. If it goes to far or not far enough adjust the timing by turning the full breaker plate a bit and recheck with the light. Keep at it untill the full advance is right and the idle is still between the F lines. Leo
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points
Dec 31, 2013 10:44:35 GMT -5
Post by Pabeye on Dec 31, 2013 10:44:35 GMT -5
A question about those little felt pads. The ones on my bike do not touch the cam lobe. I guess they should. Are they adjustable? Do I need new ones? Is there a source to buy them? Thanks in advance.
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