Stripped sump bolts

[taters]

Hi Everyone, Taters here. New to the forum, and need some advice and help. I have a `71 XS1B, 50K miles on the dial. she was a runner, and pre-winter I fitted a new wiring loom, treated myself to a OE exhaust system, launched into the winter fettling, removed the sump to clean the magnetic filter, set the torque wrench correctly, but 3 no. bolts `cracked`, and the engine now DEFINITELY weeps oil.
Now good people, is there any easy way to helicoil these babies without removing the engine?
I would be sooooooooo grateful for some help here.
Best regards All

[XS Rod]

I can't see it... my visual is of a bicycle sitting upside down on the seat and handlebars... don't think that's gonna work here bro. Maybe one of the fellas has a more vivd imagination... or the easy way may be the hard way. Feels like spring is a ways off anyway.

[richard]

Is it stripped or cracked? Because if it’s cracked that could be really bad.

Take the gas tank off, drain the oil then hoist it vertical into a tree…….. seriously If you get one of those 90 degree drills it should be able to fit under the bike to drill it out for the Helicoil. I like the stuff made by recoil that come in a set with all the stuff and an assortment of Helicoil type inserts.

Just from trial and error over the years I have learned to warm up old bikes before trying to beak case bolts and fittings lose. I have just had better luck that way. On my 71 that sump plate was very difficult to break loose and when I put it back on I just tightened it up by feel. I can never get a feel for torquing bolts on those low settings. By hand I can feel it before it starts to give. I don’t get that with a torque wrench.

[5twins]

I'd just lay the bike on it's side (on padding of course). Those are only M6 bolts and get a torque of between 5 and 8 ft/lbs (what did you use?). I don't even give them the max, I use 80 in/lbs (about 6 2/3 ft/lbs). If you want good "feel" on the torque wrench, get an in/lb one.

[XS Rod]

I use an inch pound one... Harbor Freight and it suits the purpose... Spark plugs and small fasteners. I know I'm gonna hear Snap=on and the like. I have a Craftsman and a Utica and don't see either of them as being superior. I have compared the calibration of the Harbor Freight to a standard non-clicky type and it's there.

[richard]

I have a snap-on inch pounds torque wrench and what you don’t get with the others is the weekly payment plan or that dread of seeing the snap-on man come around to take your last $20 at lunch time LOL

I don’t know if any of them are any better than the other cause they are all made in china now. I have a lot of snap-on and stuff but I also have one that is Harbor Freight and it seems just as good my two Snap on wrenches. Along time ago I had the bar type torque wrench and there have been times when I wished I still had it. I had a 250 LB Utica that I wish I still had too but, there is only so much room for tools.

I saw a screw driver torque wrench that is made with a ¼ drive fitting for a tee handle. That is on my list

[grizld1]

Welcome, taters. When a sump plate bolt breaks there's usually enough left above the level of the case to get a pair of locking pliers on it, and the threads usually survive. Drop the plate and have a look--you may be luckier than you think.

[XS Rod]

I have to admit I kinda didn't understand the snapping part. But, when he mentioned helicoil I figured he knew he stripped the holes out. If it's just a snapped bolt...

[taters]

Hi Everyone, thanks for all the comments, I did use a Draper torque wrench, set correctly, but as one of the guys said, you cant beat a bit of `feel`!
Sorry about the English terminology `cracked` the bolts - basically theyve spun.
I particularly like the idea of laying the bike on its side to work on these bolts, as there`s no oil in it anyway, and the new exhaust system isnt fitted yet.
One thing about this, is that the studs which retain the exhaust flanges are a larger diameter than the ones that are currently installed. Has anyone got any comments on this please?

Cheers Guys

Taters

[richard]

Some people Helicoil them with larger studs. On mine I use the smaller stock studs and had to us one Helicoil at that. My reason for using the existing studs was that someday they will most likely pull out and then when they do I will still have the option of going larger. I don’t know if it is electrolysis, oxidation or what but, after sitting 40 years you can’t be sure any of those bolts or studs will come out of that aluminum without taking some threads out too. You just have to be really careful.

[grizld1]

Taters, I don't know if you have anything like it on your side of the pond, but over here there's a thread repair kit from Permatex that's very useful in low-torque applications where there's anything left of the threads at all. It consists of a tough epoxy filler and a releasing agent that allows the fastener to be backed out after the epoxy has set up, resulting in a very durable repair.

[650leo]

On your exhaust studs they used a largere stud on the later models. If you got new ones from Mike's they are the later size.
You can either drill and tap to fit the larger or get some the right size. I might get long bolts that fit and cut off the heads to make studs.

[taters]

Hi Guys, been on the missing list for a while due to circumstances.
I'm ready to restart work on rebuilding my '71 XS1B, and need to start by securing the oil strainer plate in place. What size bolts do I need please? There's 6 of them . Cheers.

[richard]

M6 X 1.0 X 24.5mm Hex Head for the six that hold the plate on.