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Post by scaryguy on Apr 10, 2011 12:24:11 GMT -5
My 1980 650's headlight hasn't been working since I put it away for the winter. I tested the headlight on a 12 volt battery and it worked. Someone here suggested that it may be the reserve lighting unit, but I closed the two wires he recommended (Blue/Yellow, Blue/Black) coming from the bike and I still do not have any headlights. I tested the voltage, and the low beam is receiving 1.5v and the high beam is receiving less than a volt. Assuming there should be 12 volts going to the headlight, are there any other suggestions? Or is it really the reserve lighting unit?
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Post by 650leo on Apr 10, 2011 13:21:55 GMT -5
On your bike the safety relay not only turns off power to the starter it turns on power to the headlight.
The power to activate the safety relay comes from the alternator on the yellow wire. As long as the alternator works the yellow wire activates the safety relay.
If your alternator is not working the yellow wire has no power, no power means the safety relay not working, this means the headlight won't come on.
Check your alternator output. What is the battery voltage at idle? What is the battery voltage at 3000 rpms?
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Post by scaryguy on Apr 10, 2011 19:18:02 GMT -5
On your bike the safety relay not only turns off power to the starter it turns on power to the headlight. The power to activate the safety relay comes from the alternator on the yellow wire. As long as the alternator works the yellow wire activates the safety relay. If your alternator is not working the yellow wire has no power, no power means the safety relay not working, this means the headlight won't come on. Check your alternator output. What is the battery voltage at idle? What is the battery voltage at 3000 rpms? Well, I tested the alternator, and forgive me cause my volt meter is el cheapo, but I was gettin around 12 idle and 15 at 3,000RPM. Since that seemed good to me I started picking away at everything else you said, in which a google search came up with a few of the voltages that should be coming from the safety and lighting relays. If the info is correct: IgnitionR/Y = 12V
R/W = 12V
R/W(Kill Switch) = 12VRunningY = 6V
L/B = 12V
R/Y = 12V
R/W(Kill Switch) = 12and my findings are: IgnitionR/Y = 0V
R/W = 12V
R/W(Kill Switch) = 12VRunningY = 6V
L/B = 2V
R/Y = 2V
R/W(Kill Switch) = 12Vthen I am led to believe one or both of the relays are bad. I am going to take them out tomorrow and see if there are any external connections I can clean. Unfortunately I do not have a way to power the relay and test it, so if cleaning doesn't work I'll just replace them. Is this the correct path? If it is, you are awesome for getting me on track:D |
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Post by scaryguy on Apr 11, 2011 21:10:22 GMT -5
SOLVED:
After finally finding a wiring diagram online, I found out that the R/Y wire is coming in to the relay, and since that wire had less volts than it should have, the problem had to lie before the relays. Turns out, when I was testing the fuses for continuity, I was testing the fuse holders and not the fuses. Even though they didn't look it, they were corroded enough to give me good continuity on the fuse holders, but not the fuses. I cleaned them up and it's running excellent now. Always the simple things, KISS.
Thanks for the help.
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Post by grizld1 on Apr 12, 2011 19:55:32 GMT -5
Good job--congrats!
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Post by 650leo on Apr 22, 2011 12:22:39 GMT -5
If you still have the stock four fuse block the clips that hold the fuses are weak. Being weak the connection is weak. A weak connection leads to heat. This heat can unsolder the fuse element from the end caps. This heat also promotes corrosion.
A reccomended fix is to replace the stock fuse box with four lnlines fuse holders. Use the holders that use the blade type fuses like cars do.
I like the ones from Radio Shack. They are cheaper than from the parts stores and have caps to cover the fuses.
Leo
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Post by scaryguy on May 3, 2011 22:11:11 GMT -5
Yea, I was thinking something along those lines. I think I'll take your advice;)
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Post by 650leo on May 23, 2011 12:09:54 GMT -5
I was just checking out Mike's XS. They have the inline fuse holders for the minin blade fuses now. $1.60 each with covers. A good price if you are ordering something else, enough to get the free shipping.
To oder just four of those the $8 shipping makes it more costeffective to buy local.
He also sells a new fuse block but still uses those crappy round glass fuses. Always hated those fuses.
Leo
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jadga
New Member
Posts: 1
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Post by jadga on Jun 5, 2011 10:30:48 GMT -5
Auto Zone sells a nice blade fuse block--6 fuses--about 4-5 bucks.
I use one inline 20 amp to feed the box
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