clancy
Junior Member
Posts: 43
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Post by clancy on Sept 12, 2009 20:58:27 GMT -5
I had to replace the rotor in the stator of my 77 xs650.
i used a puller to remove it, and now im wondering how about putting the new one on. since it was so d**n hard to get off... do i need a special tool to get this seated properly again?
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clancy
Junior Member
Posts: 43
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Post by clancy on Sept 13, 2009 12:13:55 GMT -5
oh oh. i didn't take the rotor nut off before i took the rotor off.... now the spline is still on the bike and the rotor is off... is this bad? or can i just take off the nut and the spline will come off... crap.
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clancy
Junior Member
Posts: 43
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Post by clancy on Sept 13, 2009 12:55:05 GMT -5
i am going to my garage to take pics of the situation now. i will post them in a little bit.
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clancy
Junior Member
Posts: 43
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Post by clancy on Sept 13, 2009 13:18:27 GMT -5
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Post by grizld1 on Sept 13, 2009 17:29:27 GMT -5
Yep. Those parts are not supposed to be separated. The splined inner segment that's still on your crankshaft is threaded, as you can see. The rotor puller installs on those threads, and a male threaded rod on the opposite end of the puller is screwed down against the end of the crank, removing the rotor intact and undamaged, which is why the manuals specify its use. I doubt that the rotor would survive the kind of pressure required to reinstall the center. Maybe someone else has an opinion or experience with this.
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clancy
Junior Member
Posts: 43
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Post by clancy on Sept 13, 2009 19:20:18 GMT -5
my haynes manual had a pic of the puller on the rotor with the nut on. i should have read my other manual as i did tonight, it says to take off the nut and washer and use a puller to remove the rotor. none the less, i have removed the spline and am now where i am suppose to be. the crank shaft is exposed and now i am just waiting for my new/used rotor.
the crank still rotas fine, but ive noticed after everything was off of the cranshaft that i there was play in it, back and forth... is this normal? theres not much.. but i can pull back and forth maybe about a millimeter
thanks for the help everyone
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Post by grizld1 on Sept 14, 2009 10:09:23 GMT -5
What happened here is common when 3-jaw and similar pullers are used on these rotors. I haven't seen the rotor and center part company entirely like that before, but it's not rare to see enough movement to ruin the rotor. Sorry for your misfortune, Clancy, but you've made a valuable contribution here, and I thank you for it. I'm going to sticky this thread.
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clancy
Junior Member
Posts: 43
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Post by clancy on Sept 15, 2009 16:43:20 GMT -5
thanks for feed back.
since my rotor is garbage now.. has anyone have a second hand one for sale?
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Post by millimills81 on Sept 16, 2009 21:24:09 GMT -5
i can check im my garage i might have one. keep in mind its not tested or anything, but i will look
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clancy
Junior Member
Posts: 43
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Post by clancy on Sept 22, 2009 18:32:13 GMT -5
awesome! fingers crossed  |
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Post by 650leo on Sept 23, 2009 2:05:01 GMT -5
I'm not sure it is destroyed. They have to come apart to be rewound.
Just getting the inner splined hub in the right place to have the timing mark line up where it should be is gonna be the tough part.
Does the rotor ohm out ok?
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clancy
Junior Member
Posts: 43
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Post by clancy on Sept 23, 2009 11:59:34 GMT -5
no it didn't. definetly need a new one.
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Post by theswede on May 13, 2010 13:31:01 GMT -5
I seem to remember someone else on here doing the same thing in an older post. At least you didn't destroy a good one though.
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Post by sixxfiftyboy on Nov 28, 2010 11:28:04 GMT -5
I have a used rotor and I pretty sure it tests fine. I would have to test it again. The thing is I live in BC Canada
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Post by 650leo on Nov 30, 2010 19:30:02 GMT -5
Call Gary at Custom Rewinds 800-798-7282. He might be able to rebuild it.
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